What does Jasmine smell like?
Jasminum grandiflorum smells of a white flower in full bloom, fruity like ripe pear, with hints of green tea and honey. Sambac is greener and more exotic, closer to orange and jasmine tea. Both hide a carnal, almost animalic undertone linked to indole. On skin jasmine opens slowly, radiates through the heart of the perfume and then melts into woods and musks, leaving a sunny, sensual trail.
Origin and production
Jasminum grandiflorum is grown in Egypt, India and, in small quantities, Grasse, where it built the town's reputation; Jasminum sambac comes mostly from India. Blossoms are hand-picked at daybreak and solvent-extracted into a concrete, then an absolute; enfleurage was used in the past. Chemistry later added hedione, a luminous, airy jasmine-like molecule that Dior famously used in Eau Sauvage in 1966.
How perfumers use it
Jasmine usually sits in the heart, where it adds body, roundness and sensuality. With rose it forms the classic floral accord, and it pairs with tuberose, ylang-ylang, sandalwood, patchouli and vanilla. Chanel N°5 makes it a pillar of its bouquet, Patou Joy pairs it with rose in lavish floral abundance, and Dior Eau Sauvage uses it to soften a crisp citrus freshness.
How to wear it
Jasmine works in every season, especially spring and summer evenings, and appeals to lovers of sensual, luminous florals.
