Our take
What does Santal 33 smell like?
Composed by Frank Voelkl and released in 2011, Santal 33 spread through so many hip boutiques and hotels that it became the scent of a certain urban aesthetic. Its sandalwood is neither creamy nor oriental; it is dry, faintly smoky, almost like cardboard. Cardamom opens with a spicy freshness, while violet and iris lend a powdery, slightly metallic touch. At the heart, ambrox brings a diffusive, salty radiance, papyrus a note of paper and driftwood, and the sandalwood settles in. Cedar, leather and musk in the base recall a worn saddle or a suede jacket. It is rugged and comforting at once, which explains its appeal across genders.
When to wear it
An everyday scent for every season except the hottest days, at work or at the weekend. It suits fans of dry woods and genderless fragrance.
The story of Santal 33
Fabrice Penot and Eddie Roschi founded Le Labo in New York in 2006. Both came from the fragrance industry and wanted to put the product ahead of the marketing. Their system is simple. Each perfume is named after its main note plus the number of ingredients in its formula. It is mixed in the shop at the time of purchase, and the label is printed with the buyer’s name, the date and the city. Santal 33 arrived in 2011, composed by Frank Voelkl. The brand ties it to the myth of the American West: a campfire, a saddle, open country. Its sandalwood is not the milky Indian kind. It is a dry accord built on Australian sandalwood and highly diffusive woody-amber molecules. Success came by word of mouth, first among New York’s fashion and design crowd. Santal 33 did a lot to make the brand known, and Le Labo was bought by Estée Lauder in 2014. The house has since spun it into a whole range for body and home, from shower gel to candles.
Our detailed review
Dry, peppery cardamom kicks things off, and violet and iris bring a powdery, pencil-shaving note. Ambroxan takes over almost immediately. That is what gives Santal 33 its diffuse, faintly salty smell, the one you recognise in a hallway or a lift. After an hour the sandalwood and papyrus settle in: dry wood, paper, a hint of smoke. The leather and cedar base lasts into the evening, like a well-worn suede jacket. We credit it with flawless construction and a strong identity, rare among unisex woods. The problem is its own success. So many people wear it that it has become anonymous in big cities. Some also pick up a pickle or dill note, usually blamed on the cardamom-violet pairing. On warm skin it can turn sour. It suits anyone who wants a clean, genderless wood with no sugar. It will disappoint those hoping for a creamy, milky sandalwood in the classic oriental style.
Santal 33 vs its rivals
Parfums de Marly Percival shares violet, cardamom, ambroxan and musk. But it sets them under very clean lavender and citrus, with tonka rounding off the base. Percival smells like a fresh shirt, Santal 33 like wood and leather. For a crowd-pleasing office scent, Percival. For character, Santal 33. Sedley, from the same house, shares ambroxan, sandalwood and cedar. Its mint, grapefruit and rosemary make it a fresh aromatic summer scent, with no leather or powder at all. One does not replace the other: Sedley for heat, Santal 33 for the in-between seasons. Lippizan shares iris, cedar, leather and musk, and its cardamom echoes the opening of Santal 33. Oakmoss, galbanum and clary sage pull it toward the classic chypre, greener and more refined. It is the pick for anyone who finds Santal 33 too common.
Longevity, projection and use
Thanks to its ambroxan, Santal 33 carries a long way. It lasts eight to ten hours on most skin and stays noticeable on clothing for days. Projection is strong for the first two or three hours and reaches well beyond the wearer. Two sprays are enough, three outdoors: neck and nape, or the chest. Do not add the wrists on top, as it quickly becomes overwhelming in an office. Wear it from autumn to spring, day to day and at work. On very hot days the cardamom and leather feel heavy and slightly sour.
It belongs to the Woody, Aromatic family. Santal 33 is one of 4 creations by Le Labo in our encyclopedia.
