Olfactory family

Musky perfumes, the softness of a second skin

Musky perfumes are built on musks, soft, warm and long-lasting materials that recall skin, clean laundry or a warm blanket. Every musk used in perfumery today is synthetic.

14perfumes
10houses
2003oldest
Bal d'Afrique ByredoNarciso Rodriguez for Her Narciso RodriguezAthalia Parfums de Marly

A short history

Natural musk came from a gland of the musk deer, a small Asian deer. Precious and animalic, it was used for centuries before perfumery abandoned it for ethical reasons and to protect the species. In 1888, the chemist Albert Baur discovered the first synthetic nitro musks by accident. Polycyclic musks such as galaxolide followed, then macrocyclic musks, closer to the natural material. During the twentieth century, musk took over detergents and soaps, which explains its association with cleanliness. In the 1980s, The Body Shop's White Musk popularised the "white musk" effect. In 2003, Narciso Rodriguez for Her, composed by Francis Kurkdjian and Christine Nagel, placed musk at the very heart of the composition. Since then, the rise of so-called skin scents has turned musk into a lasting trend.

Sub-families

White or clean musk evokes fresh laundry and soap, like Maison Margiela's Lazy Sunday Morning. Skin musk, more intimate, imitates the smell of warm skin, in the spirit of Narciso Rodriguez for Her. Animalic musk, rarer, brings back a sensual, slightly dirty facet, as in Musc Ravageur. Floral musk pairs musks with light flowers such as iris, rose or orange blossom. Woody or amber musk, finally, extends it with cedar, ambrette or ambroxan for more body. Nearly every modern perfume contains some musk in its base.

How to wear it

Musks suit any occasion and work well in shared spaces, where a discreet scent is preferable. Some people cannot fully smell certain musks: if you notice nothing, resist adding more, because those around you probably can. Layered under another perfume, musks extend its wear and soften its edges. Apply after showering.

Frequently asked questions

Is musk still taken from animals?

No, not in current perfumery. Natural musk from the musk deer was abandoned for ethical reasons and to protect the species. Perfumes now use synthetic musks, polycyclic or macrocyclic, that reproduce or reinvent its softness. Ambrette, a plant seed, offers a natural alternative with a similar feel.

Why can't some people smell musk?

There is a specific anosmia to certain musk molecules: part of the population cannot smell, or barely smells, a given molecule because of differences in olfactory receptors. Perfumers therefore often combine several musks in one formula so that everyone perceives at least part of the effect.

What is white musk?

"White musk" is not a single material but a style: a blend of clean, soft, slightly powdery synthetic musks that recall fresh laundry or soaped skin. Popularised in the 1980s, it remains the base of many light perfumes and personal care products today.

What is a skin scent?

A skin scent is designed to smell like clean, warm skin, only slightly better than nature. It usually relies on musks, ambroxan or silky woods, with little projection. Escentric Molecules Molecule 01 and several recent musky creations are well-known examples of the style.